When I lived in New York, I used to go to a local restaurant chain called Xi’an Famous Foods. And when I went to Xi’an Famous Foods, I always ordered the Spicy Cumin Lamb Burger.
Lamb burgers may sound most reminiscent of the Mediterranean, but they’ve long been a staple of central and western Chinese cooking. Typically, when making roujiamo, the lamb (or, frequently, pork) meat is marinated and slow cooked with a range of spices and aromatics before being roughly chopped (instead of minced) and served inside a flatbread called baijimo.
In adapting this recipe, I sought a way to preserve the dish’s flavours and sensibility, but to simplify its preparation. I used lamb mince, for starters, which makes preparing the patties a simple, 15-minute affair. And because baijimo aren’t readily available in London, pita works as an easily sourced alternative.
Unlike many burgers, this one isn’t a hulking behemoth. It’s slender, easily handheld, compact and enjoyable without weighing like a ton of bricks in your belly. It also doesn’t come slathered in various sweet or acidic sauces. Instead, that’s where the beer comes in.
Burning Sky’s fantastic Petite Saison – which, at just 3.5%, is a perfectly sessionable summertime quencher – almost acts like a final, finishing component to this dish. It’s bright and citrusy, just a little bit tart, and spiced with coriander and peppercorns. This mixed-fermentation saison also features a whisper of Brettanomyces (which should become more pronounced over time; this one was only bottled at the end of July) and was aged in white-wine barrels, which gives it enough complexity to match the lamb’s richness and gamey intensity. Together, the two offer an alternative – but no less delicious – way to enjoy a timeless, summertime burger-and-beer combo.
Chinese-Spiced Lamb Burgers
Serves 2
For the patties:
1 ½ teaspoons cumin seeds
1 ½ teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns
1 ½ teaspoons white peppercorns
250g (½ lb) lamb mince
3–4 garlic cloves, minced
4 spring onions, thinly sliced (white and dark green parts separated)
Small handful coriander, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon Shaoxing rice wine
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
To serve:
2 medium pitas
Small handful coriander, roughly chopped
1. Prepare the patties. Add the cumin seeds, Sichuan peppercorns and white peppercorns to a small, dry frying pan. Place over medium high-heat and toast, tossing frequently, for 2–3 minutes, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat and transfer to a spice grinder. Grind finely.
2. Add the ground spices, lamb, garlic, all of the white parts and half of the dark-green parts of the spring onions, the coriander, soy sauce, rice wine, and sea salt to a large bowl. Mix using your hands until evenly combined. Divide into two patties and pat into shape.
3. Place a large frying pan over medium-high heat and add both oils. Once hot but not smoking, add both lamb patties. Cook for approximately 4–5 minutes on the first side, or until golden-brown; flip and cook for 4–5 minutes on the reverse. Once cooked, remove from the heat and leave to cool for a few minutes.
4. Meanwhile, toast the pitas in a toaster until warmed but not brittle. Using a knife (or a pair of kitchen shears), gently cut halfway along the edge of the pita. Open the pocket gently; place one patty in each pita. Top with additional chopped coriander and divide the remaining dark-green spring onions between both. Serve immediately.
Claire M. Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beerhound and an all-around lover of tasty things. Our first book with Claire, The Beer Lover’s Table: Seasonal Recipes and Modern Beer Pairings, is out now and available in all good book stores (and at HB&B). Follow her on Twitter at @clairembullen.