I’m not quite sure how I feel about Borough Market. On the one hand, I rely on South London’s world-famous food market for the specialty produce that eludes me elsewhere. I love to browse the cheeses at Mons Cheesemongers or Neal’s Yard Dairy, to pick up jamón at Brindisa, to grab a Bao bun and a coffee along the way. But on the other hand, the crowds and commotion can make it very hard work.
Recently, increasingly hungry and impatient, I found myself in front of Pochi, which specialises in hearty Japanese rice bowls. I ordered the buta, rice topped with soy-ginger-braised minced pork, plus pickled radishes, Japanese mayo and shichimi togarashi. It was ready in moments and I took it to a quiet kerb, where I inhaled its fragrant steam before inhaling the rest of it in short order.
I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind since. I’ve made repeat visits, facing down the slow-moving hordes of fellow visitors in the process, but knowing that habit wasn’t sustainable, I resolved to attempt to make a version myself. My recipe is an exact replica, but it’s close enough to deeply satisfy me, with its savoury warmth, its gingery brightness, its whisper of sweetness and cooked-down sake. It’s the kind of comfort-food dish I know I’ll be returning to throughout the chilly months.
I think this Japanese minced pork bowl works best when paired with an everyday beer, and Baron’s Walk in the Park Pale Ale is a perfect choice. That’s not to say that it’s simplistic or workaday, but thanks to its moderate ABV, it’s the kind of beer I prefer to crack open on a weekday evening. Bold and tropical-juicy, plush yet drinkable, it works a treat alongside the pork, which goes so well with fruity flavours.
Make sure you visit Pochi during your next trip to Borough Market; it’s shot to the top of my list of favourite traders. But when the crowds get too thick, prepare your own tribute at home.
Japanese Minced Pork Bowls
Serves 4-6
For the quick-pickled radishes (optional):
250g radishes
200ml white vinegar
200ml water
2 teaspoons caster sugar
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
For the pork:
2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
3-4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
750g pork mince
Fine sea salt, to taste
Ground white pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
150ml cooking sake
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoon sesame oil
To garnish:
Steamed sushi rice
Japanese mayo, such as Kewpie, to taste
Shichimi togarashi, to taste
1 bunch spring onions, finely chopped
1. First, prepare the quick-pickled radishes, if making. Top and tail the radishes and slice as thinly as possible. Place in a large, clean glass jar.
2. In a small saucepan, add the vinegar and water as well as the sugar and salt. Place over medium-low heat and warm, stirring frequently, just until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Remove from the heat and pour over the radishes until covered. Transfer to the fridge and leave to cool and infuse for an hour or two.
3. Prepare the pork. Place a large frying pan over medium-low heat and add the vegetable oil. Once hot, add the ginger and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, for 3-4 minutes, or until softened and fragrant.
4. Add the pork to the pan and raise the heat to medium; season lightly with fine sea salt. Cook, breaking up the pork with a wooden spoon as you do, for 7-10 minutes, or until well crumbled and completely cooked through.
5. Next, season the pork with the white pepper and light brown sugar, stirring to combine. Add the cooking sake, soy sauce, rice vinegar and sesame oil, and turn the heat down to low. Cook for roughly 10 minutes, stirring frequently, or until well-combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.
6. To serve, fill bowls halfway with steamed sushi rice, and top with the pork. Add a good squeeze of Japanese mayo to each portion and sprinkle over the shichimi togarashi to taste. Divide the spring onions between bowls and serve.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our HB&B All Killer No Filler beer subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings, plus expert tasting notes, with 10 world-class beers like this one every month.