I confess: Until this month, I had never made shepherd’s pie. I knew that I enjoyed it in the abstract – what’s not to like about saucy mince and mash – but the last time I’d had it was 20 years ago. It’s not what I think to order at pubs or restaurants. There’s always something a bit more flash, a little less humble and homespun, on the menu.
It surprised no one more than me, then, when a sudden craving for shepherd’s pie arrived one morning. I was still recovering from a long winter illness, feeling mopey and run-down. I couldn’t remember the last time I’d seen the sun (still can’t, to be fair) and the cold felt like it had staked out a permanent place in my bones.
These were, it transpired, the ideal conditions for shepherd’s pie. It is a dish that excels in the low moments and the hard times. It may not be showy, but with its sheer weight, it exudes an unignorably regal presence once you heave it out of the oven, still sizzling around the edges. It’s less faff than lasagne, and certainly easier than working with pastry, but is just as effective an antidote to pervasive gloom.
Since I’d never cooked my own shepherd’s pie, I turned to a trusted source in Diana Henry, who always seems to make the best versions of the classics. (I also polled my partner, who, as a good Midlands lad, has strong pie opinions.) We swapped red wine with the Manzanilla sherry we had in the fridge (it sounds unorthodox, but I’ll never use wine again), added Marmite for depth, and cumin because it just works so well with lamb. The result is mainly classic but a little zhuzhed-up, and entirely satisfying.
And there’s no better pairing for shepherd’s pie than Best Bitter. Speaking of zhuzhed-up classics, Track’s Hard Reset strikes the right balance: Biscuity and richly malty but with a zippy edge from UK Cascade hops, it, too, respects the original while adding a dash of novelty. Together, both offer an honest, steadying comfort.
Shepherd’s Pie
Adapted from Diana Henry
Serves 8-10
For the mashed potatoes:
1.6kg floury potatoes (I used Maris Pipers)
Fine sea salt
100g salted butter
Nutmeg (ideally freshly grated)
For the meat filling:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1.2kg lamb mince
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large onions, finely diced
2 large carrots, finely diced
4-6 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 tablespoons cumin seeds
6-8 tablespoons tomato purée
500ml beef or lamb stock
300ml dry sherry or red wine
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons Marmite
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon soft brown sugar
5 sprigs thyme
5 sprigs rosemary Parmigiano-Reggiano, to garnish
1. First, prepare the potatoes. Peel and cut into roughly 2-inch pieces. Add to a Dutch oven or other large, lidded pot, and cover with cold water. Season the water very generously with fine sea salt. Put the lid on and place over high heat, or until the boiling.
2. Remove the lid and turn the heat down to medium-low. Simmer for roughly 15–20 minutes, or until the potato pieces are fork-tender but not yet falling apart. Drain and leave to steam in the colander for a few minutes.
3. Run the potatoes through a ricer over a large mixing bowl, or mash well. Add the butter, grate over the fresh nutmeg and mix through, until evenly combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Set aside and leave to cool.
4. Preheat the oven to 200°C and arrange a rack on the middle shelf.
5. While the potatoes are cooking, prepare the mince filling. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Once hot, add the mince. Season well with salt and pepper. Stir frequently, breaking it up into small pieces as you go. Cook for 10–12 minutes, or until well-browned.
6. Next, add the onions and carrots and mix through. Cook for 4–6 minutes, or until slightly softened and the onions have turned translucent. Add the garlic and cumin seeds and cook for 1–2 minutes more, stirring frequently.
7. Next, add the tomato purée. Cook for 2–3 minutes, stirring frequently, or until it’s turned a darker, brick-red colour.
8. Add the stock and the sherry (or wine) and mix to combine. Next, add the Worcestershire sauce and Marmite and stir through. Sprinkle over the flour and brown sugar, and add the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Turn the heat up to high, or until the mixture begins to boil; then, return to a low simmer.
9. Cook for roughly 20–30 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent sticking, or until the sauce has thickened and reduced; you don’t want it to be at all watery. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Remove from the heat, discarding the thyme and rosemary sprigs.
10. To assemble the shepherd’s pie, add the meat filling to a large, roughly 9-inch x 13-inch baking dish and pat into an even layer. Transfer to the freezer for 10–15 minutes, or until slightly cooled and firmed-up; this will help prevent the potatoes from melting into the mince.
11. Carefully top the mince with large, even scoops of mash and use a spoon to gently smooth them into an even layer. Use a fork to decorate the mash with a cross-hatch pattern, if you wish. Grate over the Parmigiano-Reggiano.
12. Transfer to the oven and bake for roughly 25 minutes, or until the mash is golden-brown and the mince is bubbling. If you’d like, turn on the oven’s grill setting to give the top extra colour, but watch it carefully to prevent burning. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for 15 minutes before cutting and serving.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our HB&B All Killer No Filler beer subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings, plus expert tasting notes, with 10 world-class beers like this one every month.
