There’s nothing like summer to remind you of the joy of simplicity. This is the season of the ingredient, of the stripped-back and uncooked. The best-eaten-raw, the garnished-only-with-salt. Of heirloom tomatoes in every colour, of peaches and nectarines now actually ripe, of melons that don’t taste of misery. In times of such abundance, there’s little need for excess.
Recently, in Barcelona, I was reminded of these principles when I ate pan con tomate (or pa amb tomàquet, as it’s known there). The dish, on paper, hardly sounds like anything at all: Bread, rubbed with garlic, topped with grated tomato (grated separately or directly into the bread), drizzled in olive oil and salt. But each time I went back for more, I was struck by the alchemy of those simple ingredients, how together they turned into something greater, something almost decadent. I ate well during that trip, but the pan con tomate is really what sticks with me.
This version is still mostly simple and straightforward, though it does include a few optional flourishes – dollops of ricotta, a sprinkling of fresh oregano, intensely savoury anchovies. I also added ras-el-hanout to the mix (after my partner told me he dreamed about a dish called “Tangier Tomato”) and simmered garlic cloves in extra-virgin olive oil rather than grating them directly onto the toast. They’re subtle tweaks, and ones you can skip if pure simplicity is your objective, but I love the perfumed whisper they add.
The only thing that can improve a peak-summer pan con tomate is something good to drink alongside – Vini Rabasco Rosato Cancelli is just what I had in mind. So deep red it pushes “rosato” to the limits, this vivacious wine is plush with cherry notes and a scintillating acidity. It’s an easy companion alongside the pan con tomate and adds late-summer festivity. Together, they’re a reminder that you don’t have to go all the way to Barcelona to reap the rewards of summery simplicity.
Spiced Pan Con Tomate
Serves 4–6
4 very large beefsteak tomatoes, cored
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, to taste
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3-4 garlic cloves, smashed
2-3 teaspoons ras-el-hanout
1 loaf sourdough bread, sliced
100g ricotta, approx.
1 tin oil-packed anchovies (optional)
Small handful fresh oregano leaves
1. Place a box grater over a large bowl. Using the largest holes on the box grater, grate the tomatoes until only the skins remain (being careful not to accidentally cut your fingers). Discard the skins.
2. Place a fine-meshed sieve over a second bowl and transfer the tomatoes to the sieve. Leave to drain for 15–20 minutes; this ensures a less watery and more concentrated tomato mix.
3. Once the tomatoes have drained, return to the first bowl, and season generously with flaky sea salt.
4. Meanwhile, add the olive oil to a small frying pan and place over low heat. Add the garlic cloves. Heat just until the oil is simmering, then turn off the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.
5. Discard the garlic cloves and drain the oil into a small bowl. Add the ras-el-hanout and mix through until fragrant and well-combined. Stir through the tomato mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.
6. Next, toast the sourdough slices. If they’re too large to fit in your toaster (as is the case for mine), place in a single layer on a baking tray. Turn your oven’s grill setting to high and arrange the tray below. Grill until the bread is just starting to char in spots; flip, then do the same on the reverse. Remove from the oven.
7. To assemble the pan con tomate, top each slice of bread with a generous quantity of the tomato mixture. Garnish with dollops of ricotta, the anchovy fillets and the fresh oregano leaves. Serve immediately.
Claire M Bullen is a professional food and travel writer, a beer hound and all-around lover of tasty things. You can follow her at @clairembullen. For more recipes like this, sign up to our Natural Wine Killers wine subscription - you'll receive Claire's recipe and food pairings plus expert tasting notes for three amazing wines like this one every month.
