There’s nothing like summer to remind you of the joy of simplicity. This is the season of the ingredient, of the stripped-back and uncooked. The best-eaten-raw, the garnished-only-with-salt. Of heirloom tomatoes...
For all of my life, I was totally disinterested in Caesar salad… well, at least until the other week. How can I explain what changed? Maybe it was just the gradual...
I am a creature of habit. When July comes, I know it’s time to eat as many tomatoes and peaches and nectarines as I can. The opposite of a squirrel hoarding...
It feels fitting that Ovum Big Salt Orange Rosé’s colour is best described as “sunset”. After months of blaze and heat, we are undeniably at summer’s end, all that heat...
Seasonal transitions are my favourite time of year, and I love it as spring slowly and inexorably flows like warm syrup into the humid and fecund days of June. The...
I love the food cravings that sneakily overtake you – the ones that crawl out of your subconscious unbidden. Most mysterious are the sudden desires for dishes that you haven’t...
We've entered the time of year when turning on the oven feels like death; when the heat makes any kitchen project that takes more than 30 minutes unbearable. Right now,...
One of the best podcasts I've listened to during quarantine is Home Cooking, a four-part series hosted by Samin Nosrat (author of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat) and Hrishikesh Hirway (best...
Who is Winifred? What’s her story? She’s not giving much away, staring at us as she does, rather blankly. Not exactly happy, but not sad either. Her firmly parted hair...